San Telmo is the oldest neighborhood in Buenos Aires, and for a while, in the 1850s it was on its way to becoming one of the wealthiest, too—until an outbreak of yellow fever chased all of the rich residents to higher grounds in Recoleta. But once the neighborhood emptied out, artists, immigrants, and tango dancers poured in, and it quickly became the bohemian epicenter of the city. Although it’s become pretty gentrified in recent years, San Telmo has maintained the same creative atmosphere. 

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One of the neighborhood’s main attractions is the Sunday Feria, a craft market that runs all the way down Defensa street to Plaza Dorrego, where you can browse antique stalls. San Telmo also has several “bares notables,” bars, and cafés that have a special cultural or historical significance for the city. La Poesia was a favorite haunt for poets and writers in the 1960s (and is still a great spot to work from today), and Bar El Federal has old-school porteño vibes, with historic decor and an extensive menu. 

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Meanwhile, the Mercado de San Telmo is an exciting mix of old and new, with coffee shops, restaurants, vegetable sellers, and vintage bookstores. Further south, Parque Lezama is a great place to take a stroll when the weather is nice. Urban Station is a flexible coworking space with an office in a beautiful building near Plaza Dorrego and there are also several other coworking options around the city, such as Habito Café. Although it’s slightly outside the official San Telmo neighborhood, it’s still a close-enough choice if you’re staying nearby.