Popular beauty Split is much more than just a gateway to the Dalmatian islands. With a vibrant, youthful energy that pleasantly juxtaposes the Ancient Roman town center, here is a city where the very old meets the very fun. Whether you stay for days or months, you’ll just as likely be invited to a beach party as an opening in a museum. This is Split’s charm. Coupled with brilliant cafes and some outstanding restaurants, it’s easy to see why so many nomads stop here.
The 4th century AD Diocletian's Palace makes up the bulk of the old town, whose marble paved streets are pretty packed with tourists all summer long, but it’s a big enough city to avoid them and get into your own routine of remote work life. You’ll likely want to live outside of the old town in one of the laid back local neighborhoods. There’s beachy Firule, forested Varoš, or harborside Bačvice, all comfortably distanced from the day-trippers.
Coworking is plentiful in Split, led by veteran space in town The Works who are often at capacity these days due to their popularity with monthly members—so best become a monthly member. Long serving heroes Saltwater Nomads sometimes temporarily close their Split workspace while they run nomad conferences, so check their website before visiting. The folks at Scaleup are providing very solid, functional spaces and new kids Smartspace are thriving, with hip, well designed spaces designed with nomads in mind.
The city is blessed with a plethora of top cafes to hang out or work in. Nomads’ love Cookie Lab for its incredible pastries, coffee and staff. D16 speciality coffee roasters are a light and airy space who are happy to let you work away on your laptop. The Daltonist is another great option—it’s not quiet but the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus are all showstoppers, plus staff and facilities are fab, so you’ll find lots of people working there.
There’s so much to do in Split. The beaches and nightlife are enough to keep you busy for weeks but if you’re culturally inclined there are also some excellent museums and galleries that range from the weird (Froggyland) to the wonderful (Museum of Fine Art). Take the Split Food Tour to get orientated but once you’re settled, truly fantastic restaurants await you; Michelin listed Šug, posh yet vibrant Kinoteka, neapolitan Pizzeria Bokamorra, vegan Pandora Greenbox, veggie friendly Bepa! or local seafood Konoba Matejuska are just a few of the culinary delights in town.
Lucie Grace is a British freelance writer, based in Chiang Mai. She lived in India throughout 2020 and 2021 and misses it daily. You can read her bylines in The Daily Beast, Fodor’s, The Independent and The Times.
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