The bohemian-chic Condesa has a reputation for its upscale boutiques, captivating Art Deco architecture, and the dog-filled Parque Mexico, a green oasis in the midst of a concrete jungle. Cyclists, buskers, and dog walkers walk the Amsterdam circle in the afternoons—an oval-shaped street that follows the footprint of the former racetrack the neighborhood was built on top of. On weekends, the neighborhood’s dozens of great eateries are packed with locals and visitors dining al fresco and enjoying a relaxing afternoon in one of Mexico City’s most trendy barrios.
This neighborhood was also built at the beginning of the 1900s and it takes its name from the Countess of Miravalle, who owned most of the land here. Iconic artwork and buildings abound: homes by Mexican architects Buenrostro and Serrano, the theater cum bookstore Fondo de Cultural Economico, the Armenian Art Deco clock in Parque Mexico, and José María Fernández’s fountain of indigenous model Luz Jiménez.
While remote workers may find Condesa living costs land in a slightly higher bracket than Narvarte, Juarez, or Roma, there is no better place for a mellow living experience in Mexico City. Spend a morning drinking cold brew at Blend Station, followed by gourmet ice cream in Glace Bistro, and a late-afternoon beer in the Amantoli taproom. A special bonus is the city’s singular English-language bookstore Under the Volcano Books, which is housed in the 1950s American Legion on Celaya street. Tuesdays you will find locals gathered at the neighborhood’s outdoor food market and in the evenings at El Moro on the park for a churro and hot chocolate. Don’t miss Oaxacan delights at Pasillo de Humo or a Yucatan-inspired classic at Azul Condesa.
The author of Mexico City Streets: La Roma, this Mexico City based writer has been published on National Geographic and Mexico News Daily...
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